Wednesday, 25 June 2014

Lyon: the gastronomical capital of France

Getting there: 
Lyon was the last stop of our road trip and it was sad returning the car at Lyon Perrache Gare.
For those coming from Paris, frequent TGV trains are available between Lyon Part Dieu station and Paris Gare Lyon (2hrs journey only) . As usual, it is advisable to buy your tickets in advance from SNCF website. 

River Saone
What to do:
1. Go bouchon-hopping
What better to do in the city known as gastronomical capital of the world than to eat. Lyon is known for its many bouchons, which refer to restaurants that serve traditional Lyonnaise cuisine.
See where to eat for some recommendations.
Bouchons are everywhere along rue de tramassac
2. Take the funicular and visit the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere
The Fourviere hill is where the Roman first set up camp when they arrived in Lyon and the crème de la crème of this place is the Basilique Notre Dame which is visible from almost anywhere in the city.

In my personal opinion, there are 2 cathedrals whose interior are the most stunning and  Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere is one of them (the other being Basilique Notre Dame in Montreal, Canada). In fact, this cathedral has the most dazzling interior in a cathedral I’ve ever seen.

old school funicular bringing you up Fourviere
Carving on the exterior already enough to amaze
Part of it under restoration work
interior
every wall tells a different story
Every stained glass is an art piece
so much detail to look
360 degrees taken with photosynth
the crypt below dedicated to St Joseph
there is a museum next to the basilica
View of Lyon from Fourviere
Map to tell you what's at where
Able to spot the basilica almost from everywhere in Lyon

Aside from the Cathedral which is the main attraction at Fourviere, there is also the remains of roman theatres (Theatres Romains de Fourviere). Till date it is still in use for concerts which is pretty interesting.
Roman theatre
3. Explore the traboules
The traboules are narrow tunnels that weave through the old narrow houses and once used by silk workers to transport fabrics through the city. Now, it is part of an insightful walking tour on this history of the city. You can get a map from the tourist office and sign up for a walking tour with them. Do it in advance as the tours are very popular!

Although it is possible to navigate and explore the traboules on your own, a tour is recommended as most of the traboules are still part of a residential building (like our room at Mon Hotel Particulier) hence you will need an access code to open some of the doors.

some are open passageway
others require an access code as they are residential buildings
for example where we stayed
4. Visit the Miniature and Movie Museum (Musee des Miniatures et Decors de Cinema)
This was a surprising gem found in the old town of Lyon! The little museum is tucked away along the cobblestone streets of the old town, it is easy to mistake it as another souvenir shop as the entrance is very small.

It is a must go for movie fans, as the array of artifacts and the props used in movies on exhibit here is mind blowing! The museum collection ranges from sets of a movie, actual scripts used by actors (with correction by hand visible), old design manuscripts and sketches, prototype and actual figurine models (including a life size Alien Queen!), costume and make up props (some were quite eerie like body parts), and the impressive miniature displays used for scene shooting.

Spammed across 4 floors, it took us much longer to cover the grounds but every section were extremely entertaining!

original design sketches
Models used for filming
Miniatures used for filming - this is in fact a tiny shoebox size!
Very impressed by how realistic they look
Miniature used for night in the museum
5. Walk through old Lyon and visit the St Jean Cathedral



6. Window-shop at bellacour
Go explore the historic city centre
City hall
opera
City hall looking grand at night
7. Catch a puppet show about guignol



Where to eat:
There is no lack of restaurant guides on Lyon, you can even obtain a bouchon listing from the tourist office. Some typical bouchon dishes include: Andouillette (pork sausage made from intestines and other blended offal); fish; quenelles (ground creamed fish dumplings), grilled fillets etc

A good area to hunt for bouchons is in Vieux Lyon where are dozens of bouchons. Most of them are located along rue de Boeuf and rue de Tramassac. Just pick any along these roads and you can hardly go wrong. Based on recommendation by our B&B host, we walked to rue de Boeuf and decided on Les Adrets!

Randomly picked a michelin recommended restaurant :)
la carte - we each picked a different set
my scallops and salmon tartare - lovely!
Le husband's salmon and herring terrine
My main - cod with risotto - comforting

Pike souffle with crayfish sauce - creative and yummy!
My creme brulee for dessert
Brownie with ice cream - simple yet delish

Another place whether bouchons are gathered is in the old city hall district near Hotel de Ville – Louis Radel metro (1st arrondissement). Among which Café des Federations is one of the oldest bouchon around serving traditional lyonnaise cuisine.

The pig mascot greets you
old school booth setting
Some starters
my braised pork (in red wine) with potatoes - ultimate comfort food
so tender
Quenelle - very interesting and fishy
very sticky tart

Another highlight of our honeymoon in the city of gastronomy is to dine at a 2 Michelin starred restaurant - La Mere Brazier. Reservation was made 2months in advance via thefork.com and anticipation was high after enjoying all the delicacies around France for the past 3 weeks.

*PS: Credits go to my kind sponsors for the event :)
grand entrance
Tables all set to go
Spoilt for choice
why is the bread with garlic aioli spread also so yummy
amuse bouche
I went for classic menu - starting with artichoke & foie gras
husband's foie gras pate
my breaded veau
husband says best duck ever
why is the palette cleanser so filling too - madeline was good
the star! grand marnier souffle that was so huge I only could finish half
Husband wanted simple ice cream coz we were very stuffed by then, but in the end he finished it all
Thanks once again to my wonderful friends for the gift :)

One last lyonnaise lunch the next day:
quenelle again
i went for salmon kebab
Where to stay:
Mon Hotel Particulier - Don’t be mistaken by its name, it this is not a hotel but rather more like an air-B&B room. In fact, it is a studio room in the wall between 2 storeys.
It is located in the heart of Vieux Lyon and very convenient for tourist. In fact, it is part of the traboules passageway – we have a traboule right under our room!
You will need to call the owner when you arrive to meet up to get the keys. Despite emailing to confirm a time in advance, I still had to call them twice and waited about 20min outside the main door. The room is located between the 2nd and 3rd storey and accessed via the central spiral staircase. Yes there is no elevator! So beware if you have heavy luggage. There is a small landing mid-steps and that’s the room.
It is furnished in a modern manner, with a double bed, small bar top and shower facilities. After a quick  introduction and “check-out” instructions (where to leave the keys behind), we were left on our own to explore the bouchon guide in the room.
As mentioned it is a residential building, so we often meet local children playing in the small courtyard in the afternoon and French mothers along the stairway. For those who will like to experience Vieux Lyon like a local, this is a pretty good deal. 

Night view of the Rhone to bid farewell. 
Oh Lyon I hope we meet again someday... my taste buds miss you already

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